Madeline Weeks debuts a new eco-friendly collection of faux fur coats
Former GQ fashion director, collaborator and costume designer Madeline Weeks debuts a new eco-friendly, very special collection of faux fur coats. Kate Betts talks to Weeks about her career in fashion, celebrity styling, and this exciting “First”
What inspired you to pivot to design?
It’s a natural progression. In many ways being a fashion director, styling, editing, creating a story, working with talented artists are all part of design. I’ve wanted to be a fashion designer since I was very young. My heroes were Halston and Calvin Klein and I wanted to live in New York from the first moment I visited with my parents at age 11. They took me on buying trips for my mom’s clothing store in Virginia and we visited designer showrooms and I fell in love with the sophistication and energy of the city. I walked into the Fiorucci store on 59th Street and I thought I’d gone to heaven. So when I turned 17 I enrolled at Parsons and later F.I.T. I got a job assisting Ralph Lauren. After a year there, I got the chance to work with one of my favorite designers, Zoran, before being lured away by Condé Nast. So design has always been there.
Why faux fur now?
I’m always freezing at night because I’m usually underdressed and my cloth coats, although super chic, were never warm enough. Parkas were too sporty so in my head I would design gorgeous faux fur coats. I wanted to create a collection but I was always traveling for work and if I did have extra time, I was designing costumes for films and styling my friend Mark Ronson's music videos, or looks for concert tours like the one I did for David Byrne. Finally, when the pandemic hit and all my work was put on hold and I started reading about these fabric mills that were using recycled and plant-based materials to make innovative faux fur, it struck me that this was the right moment.
The silver lining!
Exactly! Last summer, I was in LA visiting a friend and I thought, well, let’s check out the fabrics here and make a coat. I called a wonderful tailor & pattern maker who I’ve worked with on photo shoots. We made a tailored, vintage-inspired double breasted coat with a vintage silk cheetah print lining. After a few fittings I could see it come to life and I realized I could find sustainable fabrics that were beautiful and warm and luxurious. The technology is amazing. And fashion has really moved in this direction of eco-friendly luxury. I based the company in LA and called it First By Madeline.
Read more about Vogue Italia's January Issue: The Animal Issue
I love the name, it feels very old world and glamorous. What was the inspiration behind the name and the labels?
I played around with the word fur and I came up with FIR like the tree—beautiful and long lasting. Then my friend, Ferdinando sent me a drawing of the word FIRST with the T smaller and squared in a cursive hand written style and that became the label. It’s inspired by Revillon and Beverly Hills and the couturiers of Paris and Rome. Each label is hand embroidered and numbered. And every customer who orders a coat will have their name or initials embroidered inside.
Is it unusual to create a line of faux fur coats in California?
California was the first state to ban the sale of fur, it’s a very environmentally conscious state. Also, the desert climate is always chilly at night making it an ideal place to wear First By Madeline. And when premieres and openings and life gets going again, our coats will add the perfect warm, soft touch to whatever look you are wearing. We are also partnering with the Humane Society and plan to give a percentage of sales to help preserve and protect wildlife and their environment around the world.
You have always been such a style inspiration for others. Who do you look to for inspiration?
My inspiration comes from the designers I have worn over the years like Helmut Lang and Azzedine Alaïa and Yves Saint Laurent. I’m always blown away by the glamour and daring of designers like Halston and Bob Mackie and costume designers like Adrian. I recently had the opportunity to talk to Bob Mackie about his designs and how he crafts his superb looks with the most dramatic impact. He is amazing. I also love Madeleine Vionnet’s sculptural designs. I look to the 30s and 40s a lot for sophistication, but I also love the 60s and 70s and that American luxury vibe—that sense of fun and glamour and elegance and ease.
Your mood boards are filled with Hollywood icons, which ones are your favorites?
My favorites range from Garbo & Deneuve to Rihanna and Dua Lipa and Kim Kardashian. I love people who are daring and go for it and are still comfortable in their own skin. Prince, Keith Richards, Travis Scott and Sammy Davis Jr., Joe Namath, LeBron all have and had incredible style. I love the idea of my collection being fluid and everyone wearing the styles they want to rock for any occasion. There are 20 coats and vests in the collection and each style can look amazing on anyone, from Joan Didion or Sophia Coppola to someone running to their spin class or dropping off the kids.
You decided to make this line for men and women, which speaks to your own career of dressing and costuming both men and women, right? Are the coats unisex?
While I was at GQ, I learned how to quickly envision what could look great on super talented artists who were not necessarily models. This added a new dimension to creating a narrative and a look for an actor or athlete or musical artist. I realized that it was a fantastic opportunity to create a story around this person and work with designers to showcase the clothing and the person while giving them a real look and a point of view. Working with men and women of all ages, shapes and sizes is exciting and modern to me. I have always listened to what people love to wear and then I incorporate that into my designs.
What are the challenges today of designing a new line?
The challenges are making a quality product that people respond to. We want the look and feel of the real thing, but knowing that you are supporting the protection of wildlife and the planet. The challenge is also to keep everything moving forward—the logistics, the cost, the craftsmanship involved, and not least of all, the production. I’m working on the samples now and perfecting the fit and quality. The prices run from $750 for vests to $1500 for jackets and $2000-$2500 for coats. Custom orders are possible through our website and we will work with luxury retailers and directly with clients through trunk shows. Our e-commerce site launches in February.
You have logged a lot of time in fashion’s front row—from Paris to Milan to NYC. What was your favorite fashion moment in the last 20 years?
I was very fortunate to see the Alexander McQueen shows in Paris and the few he had in New York. They were all stunning and so exciting, especially the Hitchcock themed one, the chessboard theme, and the dance contest show inspired by the movie They Shoot Horses, Don’t They? Galliano’s couture show at Versailles was spectacular and his first couture show at Sao Schlumberger’s home was also incredible. There have been such special moments in fashion I get excited to think of ... Azzedine Alaia’s first show at Bergdorf Goodman, Mugler’s early show at the Armory when Jay Alexander snuck onto the catwalk and stole the show. Tom Ford’s first and last shows for Gucci in Milan. Prada shows are some of my favorites, the music is so cinematic. Fashion shows can be theater, they can be transporting, uplifting, inspiring.
What to you is the most exciting thing happening in fashion now?
I’m excited about companies like mine that are focusing on sustainability and working and supporting eco-friendly fabric mills and manufacturers. It’s amazing to think that luxury companies like LVMH and Kering are investing in technology which will enable fashion to become more sustainable. Luxury is being recycled and repurposed which also makes it ethical and thoughtful. Vintage clothing has become mainstream and desirable. First By Madeline, is part of this vanguard, offering a way to help protect the animals we love while celebrating their beauty. Wear our coats, not theirs.
Information about First
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